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Practical information for Peak Climbing in Nepal

Introduction : Peak Climbing in Nepal

Peak climbing combines trekking with a thrilling climb to the top of a mountain to fully experience the thrill of summiting one of the world’s highest peaks. These increasingly popular trips require some trekking experience and a reasonable level of fitness. These adventure filled trips will have you using ropes, ladders, axes and crampons as you climb to what feel like the top of the world with your experienced guide and mountaineering staff.

1.  Who control the peak  in Nepal and what do you mean by NMA peaks?
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) control the peak in Nepal and peaks refer to those 33 mountain peaks of Himalayan country Nepal for which Government of Nepal has authorized NMA take care of them and given the overall authority like issuing climbing permits, The peaks have been categorized as Group A and Group B. this are the famous peak for climbing .

2) What are the NMA group A peaks ?

Group "A" NMA Expedition Peaks

S.N. Name of Mountain    Height (m.)   Himalayan Range   District Caravan Route
1 Mt.Cholatse 6440 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Pheriche-BC
2 Mt.Machermo 6237 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Pheriche-BC
3 Mt.Kyazo Ri   6186 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Pheriche-BC
4 Mt.Nirekha 6186 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Pheriche-BC
5 Mt.Langsisa Ri 6427 Jugal Rasuwa Dhunche-Lantang-Langshis-ABC
6 Mt.Ombigaichen   6340 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Gokyo-BC
7 Mt.Bokta   6143 Kanchenjunga Dolakha Charikot-Simigaon-beding-BC
8 Mt.Chekijo   6257 Gaurishankar Dolakha Charikot-Simigaon-Beding-BC
9 Mt.Phari Lapcha   6017 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Machermo-BC
10 Mt.Lobuje West 6145 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Merala-BC
11 Mt.Larkya Peak 6249 Manaslu Gorkha Gorkha-Samagoun-Lamjung Bc
12 Mt.ABI 6097 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Merala-BC
13    Mt.Yubra Himal    6035 Langtang Himal     Rasuwa Dhunche-Legberi BC
14 Mt.Yala 5732 Langtang Rasuwa Ktm-Dhunche-Langtang-Bc
15 Mt.Chhukung Ri 5550 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Ktm-Lukla-Namche-BC

2) what are the NMA group B peaks

Group "B" NMA Climbming Peaks

S.N. Name of Mountain    Height (m.)   Himalayan Range   District Caravan Route
1 Shigu Chuli(fluted peak) 6501 Annapurna Himal Gandaki ktm-pokhara-Tilkedhunga-Ghorepani-Tadhaani
2 Mera Peak 6654 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha ktm-jiri-shivalaya-Bhandar-sete- junbasi-nunthala- kharikhola-poyanbung-chadrabu- kothe-thangna-khar
3 Kusum Kangru 6367 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha ktm-lukla-namcheThame-Khumjung-B.C.
4 Kwandge 6011 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.
5 Chulu West 6419 Manang Gandaki Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani
6 Imja-tse(Island Peak) 6160 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha ktm-Lukla-Namche-Tyangboche-Pangpoche-Dingboche-chhukang-B.C.
7 Pharchamo 6187 Rolwaling Himal Janakpur Ktm-Dolkha-siguti-jagat-simigaon-Chagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.
8 Lobuje 6119 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-RermoPokhari-Gokya-dzonghla-B.C.
9 Ramdung 5925 Rolwaling Himal   Janakpur Ktm-dolkha-Siguti-GongerDoranangbu-Beding-Na-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban- Tashi Lapcha-B.C.
10 Pisang 6091 Manang Gandaki Ktm-Beshisahar-Bahundanda-Chamja-Bagarchhap-Chame- Pisang B.C.
11 Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663 Annapurna Himal   Gandaki ktm-Pokhara-Dhampus-Langdrung- Ghandrung-Chomoro-Kuldi-B.C.
12 Khongma-tse(Mehara Peak)   5849 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Mechermo-gokyo-Dughala-B.C.
13 Ganja-la Chuli(Naya Kanga) 5844 Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhunche-Sysbru Goan- Lama hotel-Kyanjin Gomba-Ganjala B.C.
14 Pokhalde 5806 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokya-Na-Thagna Cholapass B.C.
15 Mardi Himal 5587 Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangia-Dhiprang- Kharka-Mardi Basi Camp
16 Paldor 5896 Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhading-Ankhu khola-Rigaon-JAralang-Sertung-Krarka-somdang
17 Hiunchuli 6441 Annapurna Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Chomrong-Bamboo-BC
18 Chulu East 6584 Damodar Gandaki Ktm-Beisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-BC

3. What is the fee structure for NMA Group A peaks
The fee structure for NMA Group A Peak peak is as follows.
Group ‘A’
1-7 Members US$ 500 + US$ 100 for each additional climber up to 12 person

4. What is the fee structure for NMA Group B peaks.

Group ‘B’
1-4 climbers US$ 350 + US$ 40 for each additional climber up to 8 persons.
9 climbers US$ 535 + US$ 25 for each additional climber up to 12 person.

5) What is a garbage deposit policy?
This is simply a governmental required deposit to ensure that climbers bring back all their waste materials during their trip to ensure proper preservation of the mountains. This fully refundable deposit of $250 is required for those planning to climb all NMA peaks. Once you ensure that all of your waste has been retained during your trip you will receive your money. Good Karma Trekking will assist you with the deposit and provide a briefing to explain the policy prior to your departure.

6) Is a permit essential to climb NMA peaks?
A permit issued from the NWA is mandatory for everyone seeking to climb an NMA peak and those found traveling without their permits face prosecution as detailed in the Nepal Tourism Act - 2035 B.S. article number 38.

7) What is the Nepal Mountaineering Association?
Established in 1973, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is a non-profit non-governmental organization working to promote mountain tourism while preserving the environment and cultural heritage. This is the only body with the authority to authorized climbing permits for the 33 mountain peaks in Nepal. Good Karma Trekking is a member of the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal and cooperates with the NMA to obtain permits for customers.

8). Who checks the permits?
The NMA has authorized representatives at various locations throughout the country to inspect all climbing permits.

9) Can I rent equipment and how much does it cost?
Gamow bags and walkie-talkies are available for rent from the Nepal Mountaineering Assocition. Garnow bags cost $7 per day and walkie-talkies rental is $10 per week for trekking and $50 per week for expeditions. there are lots of shops in Thamel where you can rent what you need.

10. What do I need to obtain a permit for NMA peaks?
The NMA doesn’t directly issue permits to climbers and you must obtain a permit via a registered trekking agency such as Good Karma Trekking. The process is often expedited if the agent is a member of the NMA.

11. Are there any peak climbing training courses available?
The NMA conducts annual “Basic Mountaineering Courses” (BMC) and “Advanced Mountaineering Courses” (AMC) in June and December respectively. Rock climbing, artificial wall climbing, mountain rescue training and female outdoor leadership training courses are also available.

12. What is a peak trek?
Peak trekking is the combination of a trek to a regional base camp along with an expended expiation to one of the NMA peaks. These typically range from 5,000 to 7,000 meters and are found in many ranges throughout Nepal.

11. Do I need previous experience for Peak Climbing?
Those will no knowledge of peak climbing skills can climb if they have experience with higher altitude trekking. An experienced Sherpa will instruct you during each peak climb although climbers must be in good health and physical condition.

12. What is the best time for peak climbing?

The best time for peak climbing is from March to May & from August to November as these periods offer the best weather and visibility for climbers.

14. Do I need to join in a climbing group?
You are required to climb with a licensed company like Good Karma Trekking who had already submitted hundreds of climbing and expeditions and be accompanied by a Sherpa but there is no need to join a group. Many people have conducted peak climbing by themselves but joining a group is best to minimize the cost and risk. Good Karma Trekking can organize a private climb for small groups or individuals to suit your personal needs.

15. How difficult are the peaks?
Nepal offers a wide variety of peaks each with their own level of difficulty. Good Karma Trekking offers a wide range of peaks to suit your confidence and experience and would be happy to make any recommendation to ensure a safe but challenging peak climbing experience.

16. How is the water supplied during the peak climbing?
Most trekking and peak climbing routes offer bottled water as well as water purification stations offering safe drinking at a reasonable price. At higher elevations, boiled water will be available from your respective base camp.

17. How is the food and accommodation?
During the Trekking portion of your trip, teahouses and lodges will be available offering local and western food. In higher elevations, we may used tented camps where meals will be provided by Sherpa’s preparing noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, soup, dried fruit, meat, fish, tea as well as several local products.

18. What climbing Gear is required?
We recommend an alpine climbing harness, crampons, ice axe, ascender, multi-LED headlamp, karabiners, rappelling devices, ski poles, masks, hoses, regulators and an altimeter-climbing helmet. Good Karma will provide the necessary gear and help you with any additional purchases.

19. What about the Oxygen?
Every climbing group will be provided with an oxygen tank to be used in case of emergency. All climbers will have a guide trained in first aid, CPR and wilderness survival.

20. What about insurance?
Climbers are advised to purchase insurance in their home countries prior to travelling in Nepal. This insurance should cover basic medical expenses as well as a helicopter rescue in needed. Please consult Good Karma Trekking if you need recommendations regarding insurance. we will give you list of local company doing such insurance.

21. What are the functions and duties of the Sirdar and Guide?
The Sirdar and Guide are there to assemble and communicate with local staff and porters while organizing the purchase of food and other necessities. They will attend to any problems and report to the Nepal Mountaineering Association to ensure all climbers comply with the terms of their permit as they are safely escorted along their route. Finally, they will ensure the proper disposal of waste and report any infringements or problems to the local authorities.

22. What will be a day In field like?
A camping trek is fully organized and supported, with a team of guides, cooks, Sherpa’s and porters to accompany you. Personal porters will carry all the trekking equipment, food, fuel and personal belongings while cooks prepare hot meals. Trekkers only need to carry a small bag with basic items for the hike such as water and a camera. At night, the staff will set up camp and guests will stay in tents overnight with mattresses and down-filled sleeping bags. Tables and seating will be provided for meals and as a place to talk and relax.

In a typical camping trek, we start the day around 6 a.m. with a cup of hot tea. You are then provided with a bowl of warm water for washing prior to breakfast. The trek begins around 7.30 - 8 a.m.
Trekkers can move at their own pace taking breaks to absorb the scenery or take photographs at anytime. The morning walk to the lunch spot will normally take toughly 3 hours. On arrival, you will be served hot lunch. In the afternoon, after walking an additional 3 to 4 hours, you arrive at the next camp around 5 p.m. Tea & snacks are served while our staff prepares the camp. Dinner will commence around 6 or 7 p.m. The dining tent will offer comfortable seating as you enjoy healthy wholesome hygienically prepared food during your lantern lit diner3)

23. what  the package of Good Karma Trekking includes and excludes in the cost ?

Trip Cost Includes
  • All airport/hotel transfers
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
  • Domestic Flight departures  where needed   & taxes
  • Accommodations in Kathmandu in Breakfast and Bed basis  (Plz let us know what category hotels do you prefer)
  • Teahouse/Lodge and tented accommodation during trekking and climbing session
  • Three times meals in Mountain: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner,
  • All ground transportation as per the itinerary program by private vehicles
  • All necessary staffs with experienced English speaking climbing and trekking leader (guide), cook, assistant climbing leader, Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter), other helpers as per requirement for the climbing section including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food and lodging
  • All necessary paper works; trekking permits  & Climbing permits
  • Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag, Good Karma Trekking  duffel bag, t-shirt, and trekking map (down jacket and sleeping bag are to be returned after trip completion or if you have your own and wants to bring you are also welcome .)
  • Group Mountaineering climbing and camping equipment for climbing part  high quality North Face or Mountain Hardware tents for camping and kitchen, dining, toilet tents, mattresses, kitchen equipments
  • Travel and rescue arrangements
  • Welcome and farewell dinner
  • Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
  • All government and local taxes

Trip Cost Does Not Include
  • Nepal Visa fee
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu(and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottled or boiled water, shower, heater, etc.)
  • Tips for guides and porters
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